A New Category of Beer is Born
There are several brews which have laid claim to the title of world’s strongest. The German bock EKU 28, at around 13% alcohol by volume once owned the laurel, followed by the Swiss 14-16% abv Samichlaus. Other brews, such as the French Belzebuth at 15% abv., also belong in the big brew category. In 1994, however, Boston Beer Co. smashed through the brewing ceiling with Samuel Adams Triple Bock weighing in at a whopping 17.5% abv. and heralding the dawn of a whole new brewing category of ultra-strong beers. The enterprising Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head Craft Brewery in Delaware joined the category a couple of years ago with his 18% abv. Worldwide Stout, which he had been fermenting for over a year. Unfortunately for Calagione, Boston Beer released its Millennium, a more refined version of the Triple Bock, which measured 21% on the alcohol by volume scale. Worldwide Stout had to be content with the title of world's strongest beer — on tap. Koch and Calagione are not resting on their laurels by any means. Dogfish Head is ready to unleash a 21% + beer named Raison Extra while Boston Beer’s Sam Adams Utopias MMII is scheduled for a February release at the astonishing new threshold of 24% abv. Jim Koch, president of Boston Beer Co., said the excitement in doing something that’s never been done before gives him and his team the motivation to create “a new form of alcoholic beverage. It’s an intriguing opportunity,” he said. The progression of the Sam Adams products has been from sweet to dry. The Millennium was lighter on the palate, not as thick or sweet as the Triple Bock. Utopias continues the quest for higher attenuation which, Koch says, was achieved by adjusting the feeding regimen of the yeast. Prior to Triple Bock, alcohol strength had been limited by the survival of conventional brewer’s yeast which is killed when a certain alcohol level is reached. Boston Beer’s breakthrough was achieved by using champagne yeast and maple sugar which raised the alcohol to new levels. Koch explained that in normal fermentation yeast breaks down the simplest sugars first leaving a residue of more complex sugars when the alcohol eventually kills off the yeast. By not only adding more yeast, but by infusing original wort throughout the process the yeast was able to work further into the sugars, yielding a higher attenuation in brewers’ terminology. Thirty IBUs (International Bittering Units) of noble hops — Hallertau Mittlefrueh, Tettnanger, Spalter and Saaz — lend spicy notes to the Utopias while aging in port, scotch and cognac barrels contribute smoothness. Calagione said his latest creation, Raison Extra (a step up from the breweries Raison d’Etre label), uses infusions of beet sugars, raisins and wort, temperature fluctuations and a variety of yeasts, along with a six month fermentation to achieve its 21 percent of alcohol. He said that his brewery, known for exotic, groundbreaking beers, discovered early on that there was a niche for really strong beers among beer drinkers. “Our first strong beer was ImmortAle, at 11%, he said. “It was well-received among a certain group.” So, what do these beers taste like? Naturally with alcohol levels akin to port and sherry, these beers should be sipped as such — after dinner digestifs. For those familiar with the sweet, port notes of Sam Adams Triple Bock, the new Utopias is drier with more hop presence but with added flavor from aging in port, scotch and cognac barrels. The Worldwide Stout has a smooth, velvet mouthfeel which belies its strength. Worldwide Stout is available in 12 oz bottles costing about $6 each. The Utopias MMII will be sold in 24-ozs bottles in the color and shape of a brewers kettle. With only about 3,000 bottles available, retail price is expected to be around $100 each. A special tasting of these ultra-strong Sam Adams and Dogfish Head brews will be held by Ale Street News at Nodding Head Brewery & Restaurant in Philadelphia March 21. |
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