A Guide To English Cheeses: Stilton

Stilton

People who know nothing about cheeses peel away from...Stilton because the plebian proboscis is not equipped to differentiate between the sordid and the sublime. --Harvey Day

Unlike Cheddar, the Stilton name is carefully regulated, meaning that while there are variations in quality between different producers, in general Stilton is indeed sublime. Though there is a town called Stilton, it lent its name to the cheese in the 18th century because that's where the cheese was first sold, not made. It's actually made within a legally defined area encompassing parts of Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire. Known as "the King of English Cheeses," Stilton starts out as pasteurized cow's milk. The cheeses are formed into cylinders, which are matured for several months. During this time, they are regularly pricked with long steel skewers to allow the bacteria to penetrate and give Stilton its characteristic greenish-blue veins.

One of the best Stiltons is made by Colston-Basset in Nottinghamshire. Its Stilton is even creamier than most, but still has Stilton's distinctive crumble. Its taste is complex, fruity and minerally, with the classic tang of blue cheese and that underlying hint of funkiness.

The archetypal Stilton pairing is with a glass of port, ruby or tawny, accompanied by a handful of walnuts or a few slices of crisp, ripe pear. It's one of the best ways to end a spectacular dinner. Stilton isn't a great cheese to have as an appetizer, as its strong flavor dominates the rest of the meal. Definitely one of the great British Cheeses, if not the ultimate