A Guide To English Cheeses: Rarer Cheeses

Rarer Cheeses

Poets have been mysteriously silent on the subject of cheese. --G.K. Chesterton

It is a common misconception that the cheeses of England are as boring as the people. There are a host of English farmhouse cheeses that prove this wrong, some of which at times are available in the U.S. , either by mail order or at a specialty cheese shop. They are good, honest cheeses, approachable and adaptable, so that they shine on a refined cheese plate or in a simple sandwich.

One of the most appealing English cheeses is Ticklemore, an aged goat's cheese made by cheesemaker Robin Congdon in South Devon . The snow-white flesh of the cheese gives off a fresh, grassy aroma. While its texture is dry, it melts in the mouth, with the tangy, lemony flavors of a fresh chevre, as well as complexity and depth from its three-month aging. Murray 's Cheese in New York City , one of the few American retailers of Ticklemore, recommends pairing it with a Loire Valley Chenin Blanc such as Vouvray. No other accompaniment would be necessary, save for maybe a few green grapes or slices of a sharp, crisp apple.

Also sold by Murray 's is Lincolnshire Poacher, made by cheesemaker Simon Jones from milk from his herd of Holstein cows. This farmhouse cheese has a texture and aroma similar to Cheddar, and is aged for nearly two years, giving it a mellow, nutty quality. The sharp and addictive flavor lingers on the palate, the long finish bringing to mind the best Parmigiano-Reggiano or vintage Cheddar.

More traditional English cheeses include Double Gloucester, a rich, buttery cheese made with full-cream milk, with a flaky texture and pale orange color, that has been known in Gloucestershire since the 8th century. Single Gloucester is similar, but made with skimmed milk. Cheddar-like Leicester, or Red Leicester, is dyed orange with a natural annatto dye made from the seeds of a tropical tree.

Shropshire Blue is also dyed with annatto, but the blue-green veins in the cheese make a startling contrast. It's like a cross between Cheddar and Stilton, and makes a visually stunning addition to a cheese plate.

English cheeses, particularly farmhouse cheeses, are well worth searching out. Mail-order sources include Murray 's Cheese, at www.murrayscheese.com, or Ideal Cheese Shop, at www.idealcheese.com; Ideal Cheese Shop has a particularly wide selection around Christmastime.

And if you find yourself in London , be sure to stop by Neal's Yard Dairy on Neal Street in Covent Garden , or Paxton & Whitehead on Jermyn Street . Not only is the strong cheese smell overpowering, but also, for the cheese aficionado, so is the huge range of cheeses from all over the country.