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Novelty Cheeses
A
cheese may disappoint. It may be dull, it may be naive, it may be over
sophisticated. Yet it remains cheese, milk's leap toward immortality.
--
Clifton
Fadiman
Some of
the most popular English cheeses in the
U.S.
are
regarded with scorn by cheese snobs, but that doesn't diminish their
appeal. Huntsman,
which consists of layers of Stilton sandwiched between Double Gloucester,
recalls the Italian torta, made of mascarpone and Gorgonzola.
Huntsman is one thing, but Stripey
Jack--five layers of Double
Gloucester, Cheshire, Leicester, Wensleydale and Cheddar--shows you can
have too much of a good thing. English cheeses that are any good at all
should be eaten one at a time, to savor the cheese's unique character in
itself, not mashed together to make some kind of Frankenstein's monster of
a cheese.
Flavored
cheeses are now also very popular, ranging from the often luridly green Sage
Derby
to
Cheddar with ale, claret, onions, chives, mustard or black pepper. The
cheeses that incorporate fruit seem ubiquitous, from Wensleydale with
cranberries or apricots, to white Stilton with lemon zest.
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